I was making myself a fall purse and decided that I wanted to include a nice zipper pocket on the outside. I dove into my reference library, looking for instructions for zipper pockets and discovered that every single set of instructions I have, from patterns to reference books, leave the entire zipper tape exposed on the inside of the pocket. Have you ever looked inside the zippered pocket of a store bought purse? The zipper tape is never exposed in a store bought purse, so why should we leave our zipper tape exposed when we make it ourselves? I did a web search, figuring somewhere out there I would find some guidance on how to insert a zipper pocket without leaving that zipper tape exposed. Well, I didn't find any instructions, so I decided to make my own!
I am using a brown faux suede for my bag. I need to interline the fabric as it is not heavy enough on its own. Since I wanted my pocket on the outside of my purse and I needed to interline my purse, I cut the outer purse pattern out of both my fashion fabric and interfacing. If I were putting the pocket on the inside of the lining, I would have just cut a piece of interfacing that was 2" longer than my zipper and 2.5" wide.
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I pinned the interfacing to the right side of the suede and marked where I wanted the zipper to be. (I use a permanent fine tip marker for most of my drafting work as it's all inside the finished project.) I changed my mind a couple of times about the size and location of my zipper, which explains why my box has a few extra lines in it...but the outline of the box is the right size...8" x .5" (finished zipper length will be about 8") .
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I stitched along the marked box, turning at the corners. I then cut along the center of the opening to within .5" of the short end. I cut diagonally up to, but not through, the stitching at the corners.
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I turned the interfacing to the wrong side of the suede, by pushing it through the opening and then pressed it nice and flat.
Now, onto the zipper. I cut a zipper down to the size I needed and whipped the edges of the zipper tape together above the zipper head. This just makes it easier for me to control the top portion of the zipper as I sew it in place.
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I folded down .5" of the top edge of my pocket lining and edge stitched it to the back of the zipper tape.
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The front of the zipper tape looks like this.
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I placed the zipper into the opening I created and pinned the bottom edge into place. I then edge stitched the bottom portion of the zipper opening into place. I pulled the threads to the back of the stitching line and tied them off.
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This is the backside of the zipper pinned and ready for the top stitching.
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I folded the pocket lining so that the top edge lined up with the zipper tape.
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I then stitched along the sides of the zipper pocket and along the edge of the zipper tape. I made sure to reinforce the stitching along the seam near the bottom edge of the pocket.
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In order to keep the corners of the zipper opening nice and flat, I lifted up the suede and stitched the little triangle flap to the interfacing. You could just stitch a single line, but I really wanted this nice and flat.
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The final step is to edge stitch around the remaining 3 sides of the opening. I was careful to blend my stitching together. I pulled the threads to the back and tied them off. This keeps the stitching nice and tight and secure.
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Here is the pocket from the wrong side.
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Inside peek of the finished pocket.
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As you can see, the zipper tape is enclosed between the pocket lining and the fashion fabric and the pocket is professionally finished.
I would love to hear your thoughts and comments.